Banff National Park has always been a special place for my husband and I. As kids it’s where our families took us camping; as young adults it’s where we took our first vacation together; and as newlyweds it’s where we chose to spend our honeymoon. So when I was thinking about what to write about for my first “real” blog post, of course Banff sprang straight to mind. Not only is it a personal favourite destination of ours, it’s also Canada’s oldest & most-visited national park, and once you’ve been there—or even just seen pictures—it’s not hard to see why: It is, quite simply, one of the most stunningly gorgeous locations on this planet.
Banff National Park is, quite simply, one of the most stunningly gorgeous locations on this planet.
And this one week itinerary is the perfect way to take it all in! Suitable for first-time visitors or repeat explorers alike, it’s especially ideal for couples wanting to celebrate a special occasion (being largely based on the trip we took for our honeymoon), but anyone & everyone can enjoy it year-round, be they solo-travellers or families. If you don’t have a full week to spare, it can also be broken up, compressed, or even shortened based on your individual travel style and what your must-see/must-do items are. And, of course, if you are looking for a lengthier getaway, there are always more things to do! No matter how you slice it though, you’re going to get awe-inspiring mountain views, see beautiful blue glacial lakes, and have some epic once-in-a-lifetime experiences (my personal favourite: dog-sledding). And at the end you’ll have memories—and photos!—that will last a lifetime.
But before you get to Banff, you’re going to have to dot some ‘i’s and cross some ‘t’s. As a popular destination for Alberta locals and interprovincial & international travellers alike, it books up fast, so unless you want to face a sea of “no vacancy” signs you’re going to have to reserve your accommodation before you arrive. You’ll also have to choose how you’re going to get from place to place and make the necessary arrangements for that beforehand. If there are any particular tours you want to go on or activities you want to experience, those usually need to be booked in advance. And, finally, it’s not a bad idea to have at least a couple reservations at any restaurants you really want to eat at, especially on weekends. Therefore Part 1 (this post) will focus on the overall logistics of planning a trip to Banff, whereas Part 2 & Part 3 will go into detail about what to do on each individual day.
Pre-Arrival
The Bottom Line
In order to properly plan your trip, you’re going to have to nail down an approximate budget. Now, Banff is not generally considered a “cheap” destination. That said, it doesn’t have to be crazy expensive either. Depending on a multitude of factors, a week-long visit to Banff will cost between $400-$1000 for a budget getaway, $2000-$4000 for a mid-range trip, and $5000-$10,000 for a luxury vacation.
Please note: estimates do not include travel costs to or from Banff (such as airfare).
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All About Park Passes
To visit Banff you will need to purchase a Park Pass. Revenue from these passes gets reinvested into the parks themselves, helping to fund visitor services and facilities. It is not, as some people think, a permit for your vehicle; it is more akin to an admission fee. No matter your method of transportation into Banff National Park (be it car, bus, bike, or otherwise), you must have a valid Park Pass for each day that you spend in the park boundaries. A pass is charged per adult (18+), although discounts are available for groups of up to seven people travelling together, and for seniors (65+). Entry is free for children and youth (17 & under), as long as they are accompanied by one or more adults.
Which pass to get
There are two types of passes you can buy to access Banff: a daily pass ($11 for a single adult, $22 for a group), or an annual pass ($76 & $153 respectively). Daily passes are valid from the time & date of purchase until 4:00pm/16:00 the following day, and can be bought for a set of consecutive days. You will need six daily passes to complete this itinerary as written.
If you are interested in deviating from this itinerary and exploring some of the other national parks close by, you do not need to purchase an extra pass to do so, as long as the total number of days remains the same. Daily passes for Banff also grant you access to Elk Island, Glacier, Jasper, Kootenay, Revelstoke, Waterton, and Yoho national parks. If you are planning on visiting Banff—or any of the other locations listed above—for longer than a week combined, or if you are planning on visiting any other Canadian national parks within 12 months of your trip to Banff, it is more economical to buy an annual ‘Discovery Pass’, which is valid for a full year until the end of the calendar month of purchase.
How to display your pass
Should you choose to arrive in Banff via a personal or rental vehicle, you must display your pass so that it is clearly visible through the windshield, and leave it in your vehicle while parked. If you arrive by bike, bus, shuttle, or some other method of transportation, carry your pass with you.
Inclusions & exclusions
National Park Passes (those that are required to enter Banff) are not valid for provincial parks such as Bow Valley Provincial Park in Kananaskis Country, near Canmore.
Bus/shuttle tickets, accommodation bookings, paid parking, and other such costs you may encounter do not include a Park Pass. If you are travelling with a commercial tour group, inquire with them as to whether or not the price of the tour includes the pass(es). Likewise, a Park Pass does not include free use of transit, campgrounds, parking in certain areas, attractions such as the hot springs and/or gondola(s), et cetera. For a full list of Parks Canada fees, click here.
Where to buy a pass
You can purchase daily or annual passes upon your arrival at at the park gates, at any Parks Canada info centre, or at a campground registration booth. If you prefer to do things in advance, you can buy passes online, or in-person at a partner location such as AMA, Cabela’s, Camper’s Village, or MEC.
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When to Go
Banff can be visited year-round. It is most popular in the warm summer months, from late June—when the glacial lakes are at their most otherworldly vibrant shade of blue—to August, but each season has its own unique benefits. Fall (September & October) brings brilliant colours and fewer crowds. Winter (November to mid/late April) ushers in ski season, along with other cold-weather activities, such as climbing the frozen waterfalls of Johnston Canyon. And spring (late April to mid June) offers the most dramatic water levels as the snowmelt peaks, alongside low tourist numbers.
Some attractions can only be visited during certain times of the year, so if there’s something specific in mind that you want to see, make sure that you plan your visit around when it is open. For example, the road to Moraine Lake is inaccessible during the winter months due to high avalanche risk; it typically opens in late May or early June depending on conditions, and closes after the second Monday in October (or earlier if there is heavy snowfall).
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Where to Stay
Banff
canmore > // lake louise >
If it’s your first time in the park, if you don’t want to rent a vehicle, or if you plan on camping, then Banff is the best place for you to choose for your base. It has the nicest campgrounds, the best public transit options, and it’s the most walkable (although Canmore & Lake Louise are both very pedestrian-friendly as well).
Please note: prices below are approximate.
economy
Banff International Hostel and HI-Banff Alpine Centre have off-season rates around $30-$100 per night ($100-$200 per night in the summer). Both offer dorm beds & private rooms alike.
mid-range
My husband & I have personally enjoyed our stays at The Elk & Avenue Hotel and The Ptarmigan Inn, both of which are right near the centre of town and very walkable. If you are looking for someplace quieter, I’ve heard good things about The Juniper Hotel and Buffalo Mountain Lodge, both just outside of the town limits. In the off-season, rooms at these hotels generally start between $100-$200 per night, but expect to pay between $300-$400 per night in the summer.
luxury
The Fairmont Banff Springs is probably the most well-known luxury hotel in Banff. Another option is The Rimrock Resort Hotel. Off-season rates start at around $300 per night, while during summertime the range is more like $500-$700 per night.
camping
We camp in Banff National Park every summer. There are a plethora of campgrounds to choose from. Tunnel Mountain (Village I, Village II & Trailer Court) and Two Jack (Lakeside & Main) are the closest to the town, while the others are further afield. Reservable frontcountry campgrounds will run you about $24–$31 per night for an unserviced site, depending on the campground’s amenities, while serviced sites (those with power, water, and/or electrical hookups) cost $36–$43 per night. I highly recommend booking campsites well in advance, i.e. when reservations become available, usually in early to mid January. The reservation fee is $12 per transaction if you book online, and $14 if you reserve by phone. Learn more about reserving campgrounds here.
There are some first-come first-served frontcountry campgrounds in the park for $20 per night, but unless you show up early in the week (Monday-Wednesday) or in shoulder season (May or September), chances are you won’t be able to grab a spot. There are also backcountry campgrounds in the park (permits are $11 per night), but it would be exceedingly difficult to complete this itinerary as written while staying in the backcountry, since you have to hike quite a ways in & out.
Chances are, if you’re camping, you’re going to want to have a campfire. To do so, you will need to purchase a fire permit ($10 per night). This permit is automatically added to your bill when you make a reservation for a campground in Banff; if there is a fire ban issued during the dates of your stay, you will be refunded the cost of the permit. If you are staying at a first-come, first-served campground with a registration kiosk, you will have to request to purchase a fire permit (or permits) upon check-in. And if you are staying at a campground with self-registration, make sure that you include the permit(s) on your registration form. Please do not bring your own firewood, as it can spread diseases and pests to trees in the area. Parks Canada provides free firewood at all its campgrounds.
Canmore
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This is our personal favourite place to stay. If you’re on a budget, or if you’re a repeat visitor to Banff—and you have a vehicle or plan on renting one—then Canmore is a great spot to stay. Since it’s not actually in Banff National Park, the prices for accommodation, dining, and recreation are somewhat lower; yet you can be biking, hiking, skiing, or otherwise exploring the park within half an hour! You also avoid some of the crowds, and from Canmore you can also easily access Kananaskis Country (the catch-all term for over 4000 square kilometres of provincial parkland along Alberta’s southeastern flank).
Please note: prices below are approximate.
economy
Canmore Downtown Hostel, HI-Canmore Alpine Centre, and The Canmore Hotel Hostel all have dorm beds and private rooms available, with costs ranging from $35-$90 per night in the off-season, to $50-$200 per night in the summer.
mid-range
As Canmore is larger than Banff, there are a lot more options available for mid-range stays. Basecamp Resorts has several properties in or near downtown Canmore, and they offer a multitude of accommodation styles, from multi-bedroom condos with fully-equipped kitchens, to traditional hotel/motel rooms (Cam & I stayed at The Lamphouse Hotel and loved it). Other options include Coast Canmore Hotel, also close to downtown; and, a little further afield, Falcon Crest Lodge and Blackstone Mountain Lodge. All are modestly priced between $100-$150 per night in the off-season and around $300 per night in the summer.
luxury
Our favourite place to stay in Canmore used to be The Grande Rockies Resort’s condo-style suites, which were very reasonably priced in the off-season at around $125-$150 per night. However, recently the hotel has been plagued with a spate of issues, ranging from renting out the majority of its underground parking to having its restaurant and in-house spa close; there are still some glowing reviews out there, but there are also a lot of angry customers. I will update this post if this hotel shapes up again, but for now I would recommend staying at either The Malcolm Hotel or Stoneridge Mountain Resort, which cost $200-$300 per night in the off-season, and $400-$600 per night in the summer.
camping
As much as we love Canmore, I don’t recommend camping there when visiting Banff. The private campground within town limits is tiny & cramped, and the provincial campgrounds in Kananaskis are more expensive for less value when compared with the campgrounds in the national parks.
In general, this is the most expensive location of the three. However, if you’re a photography nut and getting those sunrise photos at Moraine Lake is a must for you, then Lake Louise is your best option.
Please note: prices below are approximate.
economy
HI-Lake Louise Alpine Centre is the only hostel here. It offers both dorm beds and private rooms, with prices ranging from $40-$150 per night in the off-season to $55-$250 per night in the summer.
mid-range
Lake Louise Inn, Mountaineer Lodge, and Deer Lodge all cost around $100-$175 per night in the off-season, and $250-$300 per night in the summer.
luxury
There are two hotels in the Lake Louise area that embody the epitome of luxury. The Fairmont Château Lake Louise is open year-round, with prices ranging from $400+ in the off-season to $800+ per night in the summer. Another option is Moraine Lake Lodge. Open from June to September, this hotel is perfect if you’re looking for a spectacular getaway. Rooms range from $750-$1500 per night.
camping
Lake Louise Campground has two sections, one for soft-sided trailers & tents where sites are unserviced and cost $29 per night; and one for hard-sided trailers only ($35). My husband & I have stayed in the tenting portion, and we enjoyed our stay overall, although the sites are a bit smaller than other Parks Canada campgrounds and the bathroom facilities are somewhat dated.
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How to Get Around
Driving
Getting around using your own vehicle (or renting one) is the best way to see Banff National Park. You have the freedom to operate on your own timetable, as a general rule of thumb it will save you time compared to public transit, and it’s cheaper than taking taxis and guided tours. However, there are cons to driving in Banff. While there is free parking available at every major attraction in Banff (if you know where to look for it), it can often be a hassle trying to find a spot, especially during peak season. And if you’re planning an off-season getaway, winter driving in the Canadian Rockies is no picnic. As someone who refuses to drive in foreign countries, I understand not wanting to deal with these issues, and I have specifically designed my itinerary so that you do not need to drive to be able to complete it.
If driving appeals to you but you are arriving in Alberta by plane, then you will need to rent a vehicle. This will run you approximately $20-$70/day, depending on what time of year you’re renting, and whether you want a base model car or an SUV with 4-wheel drive. Many summer visitors, particularly international tourists, will opt to rent a camper van or RV. These will cost between $250-$300/night, which sounds like a lot, but when you consider that hotel prices in the summer are typically that much or more, it becomes a lot more appealing.
Of course, if you’re driving, you have to factor in the cost of gas. Obviously, this fluctuates wildly, so I can’t in good conscience put an estimate in here. You can check current gas prices online with the CAA or Gas Buddy, but a good rule of thumb is that prices inside the park are higher than in major cities such as Calgary, and that if you go somewhere remote (like Saskatchewan Crossing on the Icefields Parkway) they’ll be higher still.
Public transportation
For a small town, Banff has an excellent public transit system. The network of Roam buses can take you to & from Canmore, all nearby campgrounds, and most of the major attractions in the park. The fare system can be difficult to keep straight if you are paying for each ride individually, but by purchasing day passes through the Token Transit app it becomes a lot more manageable. Fares range from $2-$10 for a one-way adult fare, and $5-$25 for a 1-day pass. Some of the routes to extremely popular destinations allow you to reserve seats in advance.
In addition to the local buses, Parks Canada also operates shuttles to two very popular sites: Lake Louise & Moraine Lake. Both of these shuttles require reservations.
Other options
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If you do not have your own vehicle and do not plan on renting one, you will need to make use of private shuttles and/or tours in order to complete this itinerary—and, indeed, to get to the park itself. There are a variety of companies that offer shuttles to & from Banff. Some paid attractions (for example, all the gondolas) will offer free shuttles for visitors. And there are also a multitude of guided tours offered in Banff, some of which include transportation (but be careful when you book, because not all of them do).
Biking and walking are, of course, great options to use when covering shorter distances, but are not realistic when considering conquering longer ones (like the Icefields Parkway, for example).
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What to Do
Obviously, this entire itinerary is about things to do in Banff National Park. Part 2 & 3 will go into detail about specific activities to complete on each individual day; here in Part 1, this section stands merely to point out some helpful tips regarding planning said activities.
Tours & other experiences
Most tours in & around Banff, whether they be a 2-hour excursion or a multi-day trip, will require advance booking. Many other popular experiences, like the gondolas and the ski resorts, also allow you to buy your tickets online (and, if applicable, choose the time of your visit); while this is by no means required, it is definitely highly recommended, as it will save you quite a bit of time since you won’t have to stand in line at the ticketing counters.
If you are the type of person who enjoys audio guides, you may want to download the GyPSy app. They have a bundle available for $30 that covers the entirety of Banff National Park, plus Yoho, the Icefields Parkway, and Jasper. I haven’t used it myself, but I’ve seen it recommended on many a travel blog, and I think it would be excellent to listen to on some of the longer drives to learn a bit more about what you’re seeing through your windows.
Dining
There are a fair number of excellent restaurants in Banff, and they can get very busy, particularly during the summer or on weekends in the winter months. If there is somewhere in particular that you really want to go, I recommend making a reservation (if possible), or else trying to go during non-peak times, to ensure that you get a table.
Here are just a few of my personal favourite places to eat:
- Stop by Tooloulou’s for cajun fare, and if you’re feeling spicy, try one of their 100+ hot sauces.
[$$, breakfast/lunch/dinner] - Grab a coffee (and a fresh pastry) at Evelyn’s.
[$, café] - Visit Magpie & Stump for an authentic taste of Mexico in the mountains, and maybe a flight of tequila.
[$$, lunch/dinner] - Enjoy craft cocktails alongside tapas-style fusion plates at Block Kitchen & Bar.
[$$$, lunch/dinner] - And finally, indulge your wild side with game such as duck, elk, and (of course) bison while dining in refinement at The Bison.
[$$$$, dinner/brunch]
Stay tuned for a future post for a longer list, along with detailed reviews!
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A Note on Pets
Overall, Banff is a great place to bring your fur baby. Many people vacation with their dogs, and I’ve even seen people camping and hiking with their cats! We visit Banff about five or six times a year, and take our Havanese (Nina) along with us for the majority of our trips.
Public areas
Pets are permitted on all trails and in all campgrounds in Banff National Park, even in the backcountry, as long as they are kept on a leash or otherwise contained (if your pup loves to run free, there is a fenced off-leash dog park just outside the town of Banff, and three in neighbouring Canmore). When the snow starts to fall, certain trails restrict canine access in order to avoid spoiling cross-country skiing tracks, or to reduce avalanche risk, but if you can load your pet into a carrier where they’ll be safe & warm, you can bring them along.
Private businesses
Within Banff townsite itself, many stores allow dogs inside, and if you’re visiting in the summer several of the restaurants permit pups on their patios. Accommodation-wise, there are plenty of pet-friendly hotels around (though most of these charge a nightly fee). Unfortunately, most ticketed attractions—the gondolas, all three ski hills, Cave & Basin, etc—prohibit pets with the exception of licensed service animals; if one or more of these stand out as “highlights” in your eyes, check if your hotel offers pet-sitting services; or, if your fur baby is kennel-trained, whether they permit pets to be left in rooms unsupervised; and even if the answer to both questions is no, there are several doggie daycares around.
Transportation
Roam buses allow pets on board if they are in a carrier small enough to be held on the owner’s lap. Parks Canada shuttles, on the other hand, only permit licensed service animals. Taxis, rental cars, and other private methods of transportation all have their own policies, so be sure to ask when you book what these might be.
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Additional Suggestions
If you have over a week of vacation, or if you’re a go-getter who jams as much as possible into a single day, you may want to explore more of what the Canadian Rockies has to offer. Here are some of my favourite places to visit outside of Banff:
- Spend a day strolling around the town of Canmore.
- Drive the entirety of the Icefields Parkway to Jasper National Park, home of the majestic Columbia Icefield, thunderous Athabasca Falls, and mystical Spirit Island.
- Visit Kananaskis Country and hike to gorgeous Grassi Lakes, ascend to the peak of spectacular Rundle Mountain, or go spelunking in Rat’s Nest Cave (there aren’t actually any rats, I promise).
- Pop over to Kootenay National Park to admire the views of Vista Lake, take a quick walk through beautiful Marble Canyon, or relax in the hot springs at Radium.
- Cross the Continental Divide into Yoho National Park and hunt for fossils in the Burgess Shale, search for an abandoned locomotive in the forest, or visit stunning Lake O’Hara.
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Up next…
That’s it for Part 1: Pre-arrival! In my next post (Part 2) I kick off the itinerary itself and go into detail about the highlights in & around Banff townsite.
the best banff itinerary: part 2 >>>
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